OT it looks like two outlets in one of my rooms arent grounded

[griffin8r]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

Now, your talk about the UPS is Simply wrong. A proper UPS Does NOT use a 20 cent cap. a Proper UPS line conditioner ISOLATES the output power through a transformer, and modulating circuit. There is NO physical electrical connection between your equipment, and the wall power.

We're still talking past each other here. I'm saying most UPS systems have a MOV-based surge suppression system. Yes, it's true, the equipment stays protected, because the equipment is isolated from the wall by the power supply system, but the power supply system's protection from surge is still a varistor with a limited joule rating, and when that varistor hits its lifetime max, your UPS is toast. Not your equipment, but the UPS itself.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

We're still talking past each other here. I'm saying most UPS systems have a MOV-based surge suppression system. Yes, it's true, the equipment stays protected, because the equipment is isolated from the wall by the power supply system, but the power supply system's protection from surge is still a varistor with a limited joule rating, and when that varistor hits its lifetime max, your UPS is toast. Not your equipment, but the UPS itself.

I'm afraid we'll just have to disagree.
The VDR is only one component of a power management system.
If you drop your UPS in a bathtub filled with water, it's toast too.

[griffin8r]

If you drop your UPS in a bathtub filled with water, it's toast too.

I'm not sure of the relevance here. All I'm saying is that, while the UPS will certainly protect your equipment on an ungrounded line, the fact that the line is still ungrounded means your UPS has less ability to protect itself. Even a series mode protection system is helpless with no neutral to shunt excess voltage.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrica...ed-outlets.htm

The reason surge protection works is that it uses the ground conductor to divert any surge too. And with out it they really do not work correctly. If you find that this is to much then at least get a battery backup power supply. A good one will be around 200.00 dollars and it will regulate and clean the power to the equipment. And usually they take the hit instead of the equipment.

Operative being they take the hit. So, if you don't mind replacing them after virtually every electrical storm, since they are helpless to protect themselves from surge because there's no neutral ground, then yes, they'll solve your problem.

Which was my whole point in the first place. Yes, the UPS will protect whatever is plugged into it, whether there's a ground or not, but you'll be replacing the UPS every time you get a significant line surge or even a series of small line surges, because the system cannot protect itself without a ground.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

I'm not sure of the relevance here. All I'm saying is that, while the UPS will certainly protect your equipment on an ungrounded line, the fact that the line is still ungrounded means your UPS has less ability to protect itself. Even a series mode protection system is helpless with no neutral to shunt excess voltage.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrica...ed-outlets.htm



Operative being they take the hit. So, if you don't mind replacing them after virtually every electrical storm, since they are helpless to protect themselves from surge because there's no neutral ground, then yes, they'll solve your problem.

Which was my whole point in the first place. Yes, the UPS will protect whatever is plugged into it, whether there's a ground or not, but you'll be replacing the UPS every time you get a significant line surge or even a series of small line surges, because the system cannot protect itself without a ground.

You seem to have jumped the shark here.....

We started out with a missing GROUND. Now you are talking about a missing Ground AND a missing neutral.

If there is a missing neutral, I'd run, not walk away from that line. And in most cases, nothing would work.

So, all your arguments about the missing neutral make your statements invalid.
The Ground is the BACKUP for the neutral.....as I'm sure I said in several previous posts.
I'm not sure anything will take a lightning strike. If you are concerned about a lightning strike, make sure you have a rod on top the house, and make sure you are behind a Power transformer without a lot of open wire between you and it.
But the odds of a lightning strike are......well, the odds of a lightning strike.
If you actually get struck by lightning, on your line, your "surge strip" isn't gonna take it, no matter what size wire you have going to ground.

[griffin8r]

Originally Posted by EmporerEJ

You seem to have jumped the shark here.....

We started out with a missing GROUND. Now you are talking about a missing Ground AND a missing neutral.

If there is a missing neutral, I'd run, not walk away from that line. And in most cases, nothing would work.

So, all your arguments about the missing neutral make your statements invalid.
The Ground is the BACKUP for the neutral.....as I'm sure I said in several previous posts.
I'm not sure anything will take a lightning strike. If you are concerned about a lightning strike, make sure you have a rod on top the house, and make sure you are behind a Power transformer without a lot of open wire between you and it.
But the odds of a lightning strike are......well, the odds of a lightning strike.
If you actually get struck by lightning, on your line, your "surge strip" isn't gonna take it, no matter what size wire you have going to ground.

OK....

We need to get back to the fundamentals of a 3-prong outlet and what exactly "ground" is.

In a three-prong outlet, one side is positive, the other side is negative, and the hole in the middle is the ground (also known as the neutral, because it carries no current other than what is shunted to it by the circuitry in an overload)

The reason why that middle hole is considered the "ground" is because there is no ground connection on the negative side of the outlet - that's completing the circuit to and from the electrical supply outside. The neutral pole actually does connect to a true ground drilled into the soil outside of your house near the meter.

When a power strip reports that there is no "ground" on your circuit, it means there's no connection to that neutral plug, which means there's no way to shunt.

I'm not sure where you are on this science, or where we're not making a connection (pardon the pun) in our discussion, but this is all pretty much wiring 101.

Positive/Negative/Neutral(ground) is what I learned back in Journeyman electrical classes 20 years ago.

As to your assertion about lightning striking, I'm not talking about direct lightning strikes. Even minor surges add up in any device with a Metallic Oxide Varistor (MOV) based surge suppression system. The Joule rating on surge suppressors and UPS systems alike is the lifetime maximum amount of surge that MOV will successfully shunt before it fries and defeats any further current flow to the rest of the system - this is PERMANENT - as in, unless you feel lively enough to go in there and replace the MOV yourself, you're going to have to buy a new surge suppressor or UPS box.

If you're lucky (or smart) enough to buy a power conditioner that utilizes Series Mode Suppression, you don't have that problem, because there's no varistor involved, it's a direct shunt to ground of the excess power until it reaches a certain max current, at which point a circuit breaker built into the box will trip and merely need to be reset.

[EmporerEJ]

Originally Posted by griffin8r

OK....

We need to get back to the fundamentals of a 3-prong outlet and what exactly "ground" is.

In a three-prong outlet, one side is positive, the other side is negative, and the hole in the middle is the ground (also known as the neutral, because it carries no current other than what is shunted to it by the circuitry in an overload)

The reason why that middle hole is considered the "ground" is because there is no ground connection on the negative side of the outlet - that's completing the circuit to and from the electrical supply outside. The neutral pole actually does connect to a true ground drilled into the soil outside of your house near the meter.

When a power strip reports that there is no "ground" on your circuit, it means there's no connection to that neutral plug, which means there's no way to shunt.

I'm not sure where you are on this science, or where we're not making a connection (pardon the pun) in our discussion, but this is all pretty much wiring 101.

Positive/Negative/Neutral(ground) is what I learned back in Journeyman electrical classes 20 years ago.

I'm not sure what electrical system you are describing, because here in the US, we have a Hot (Black wire) Neutral (White wire) and Ground (Bare Copper)
By virtue of AC (Alternating current) there is no "Negative." The Hot to neutral "Alternates" between positive/negative 60 times a second, hence 60 HZ. Ground goes to earth, theoretically the earth shield, all the way back to the generator casing back at the production plant.

Basic Household electrical single phase service starts with 240 Volts, i.e. 2 hot wires from opposing sides of the sine wave generated at the Hydroelectric/coal/nuclear power plant, both returning to the center "neutral." From each of the "hot" wires to neutral representing 1/2 of the total sine wave. Hence- 120 Volts. a Properly balanced panel would have equal loads on both "legs" of this circuit.
The Neutral and Ground wires are tied to a common Buss bar inside your electrical panel, unless it is a sub-panel, where they are required to be isolated.

No "negative" anywhere to be found in AC Home wiring, except in the theoretical process.

Did you want to get into the discussion as to why a sub panel MUST have isolated neutral and ground? Or would that simply add a layer of confusion to a subject you apparently don't understand?

Yes, it IS wiring 101, and you neither understand basic home wiring, or, apparently, electronic circuitry, where you do begin to see positive/negative. There, of course, we can find DC (Direct current.)
But again, that will certainly lead to additional confusion, since you can have both AC and DC in an electronic circuit.